Jun Takahashi returns to cinematic shadows with a collection built on dark luxury and artistic tension.
Revisiting Cindy Sherman’s Haunting Imagery
UNDERCOVER’s Fall Winter 2026 menswear collection, titled 100 percent KHAOTIQUE NOIR, sees Jun Takahashi revisiting a familiar creative reference. Drawing once again from Cindy Sherman’s film stills, the designer builds on the foundation of his Spring 2020 collaboration, this time deepening the mood through richer materials and a more opulent execution.
Elevated Outerwear and Experimental Layering
The collection centers on refined yet subversive silhouettes, with a strong focus on outerwear and layered construction. Silk padded car coats and flight jackets rework functional staples through a luxury lens, while sleek black leather garments emerge as standout pieces. Takahashi’s experimental approach is most evident in a double structure conjoined tank top designed for multiple styling configurations.
Technical Details and a Disciplined Palette
A collaboration with Gramicci introduces technical elements to tailored trousers, combining signature fastenings with unexpected details such as zigzag stitching and raw slashes that reveal satin linings. The color palette remains tightly controlled, dominated by deep blacks and charcoals with subtle interruptions from botanical jacquards and understated checks. Cindy Sherman’s imagery appears throughout as prints and patches, extending even to Vans sneakers, reinforcing the collection’s artistic depth and collectible appeal.
