As the days get longer and temperatures start to rise, fashion is making its own seasonal shift — not quite into vacation mode just yet. Before the industry heads off on summer breaks and out-of-office replies take over, we’re gearing up for an early summer stretch of fashion shows, starting with some major names in the mix.
Kicking things off this week is Louis Vuitton’s resort 2026 show in the south of France, followed by Maria Grazia Chiuri’s spectacle for Dior in Rome next week. Then, the men’s fashion season officially launches with Pitti Uomo in Florence on 17 June and wraps in Paris on 29 June. Right in the middle? Milan Fashion Week — which just dropped its spring 2026 men’s calendar. Here’s your guide to what’s in (and what’s not).
Missing in Action: Gucci, Fendi, and More
Once again, Gucci and Fendi are sitting out Milan’s men’s week. Demna’s highly anticipated debut for Gucci is expected to premiere in September during the ready-to-wear collections. In the meantime, the brand will continue showing co-ed, studio-led designs. With Alessandro Michele’s era of all-gender shows behind them, it’s unclear if Demna will bring back split men’s/women’s presentations or stick to co-ed — but his spring 2026 debut is expected to represent both.
Fendi, meanwhile, is also saving its runway return for September. Silvia Venturini Fendi, following a warmly received centennial show in February, will lead another co-ed show this fall.
Other notable absences include rising talent Luca Magliano and JW Anderson, as Jonathan Anderson prepares his first-ever Dior Men collection, set to debut in Paris on 27 June. Zegna, typically the closer in Milan, is also stepping away — but for an exciting reason. Designer Alessandro Sartori will take Zegna to Dubai for the first time ever, showing the brand’s spring 2026 collection there on 11 June, unofficially opening the entire season.
Who Is Showing?
In the absence of Federico Cina, usually first on the calendar, the honor of opening Milan Men’s Week goes to Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu on 20 June. Kuwata made a splash last season with his debut runway at Pitti Uomo and returns now with his first Milan solo outing.
Saul Nash is back for his second season in Milan, presenting his latest on 22 June. Etro will also return on the same day, continuing its split-season approach — co-ed shows for autumn/winter, and standalone men’s showcases for spring. Bally, currently between creative directors following Simone Bellotti’s move to Jil Sander, will also present a co-ed collection on 22 June.
Giorgio Armani will close out the Milan schedule this season with his show on 23 June, stepping into the anchor slot usually held by Zegna.
A Transitional Season
With several major names opting out and many new creative directors saving their first collections for September, this season’s Milan men’s schedule feels like a transitional moment. The full picture of where men’s fashion is heading likely won’t come into focus until 2026 — but for now, we’ll be watching closely as this chapter unfolds.
