A Fresh Take on Fashion Waste
Luxury giant Chanel is making a bold move in the sustainability space with the launch of Nevold — a new, fully independent platform focused on recycling and circular materials. And no, this isn’t just a buzzword-filled PR stunt. This is Chanel getting serious about the future of fashion, one thread at a time.
The name “Nevold” stands for “never old,” a subtle nod to the platform’s mission: to give materials — from tweed to leather — a second life, and to do so at scale.
Why Now? A Looming Materials Crisis
Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion, explained that the platform is a strategic answer to a growing problem: the scarcity of high-quality raw materials. Cotton, wool, cashmere, silk, and leather make up 80% of Chanel’s material use — and all five are under serious pressure due to climate issues, traceability problems, and global tensions.
“We’re not trying to replace what nature gives us,” Pavlovsky said. “But getting the best quality with full transparency is getting harder.”
More Than Just Chanel
Nevold won’t just serve Chanel. Led by Sophie Brocart (formerly of Patou), it’s built as an open B2B platform that will work with other brands, manufacturers, and research institutions. Think of it as a materials lab, not a resale site. Its mission? To redesign the raw components of fashion — not the finished products.
For instance:
- Tweed made from recycled threads is already used in some Chanel pieces.
- Recycled leather waste now replaces plastic in structural parts of bags and shoes — including the iconic slingback heels.
Behind the Scenes: How It Works
Nevold is tied closely to L’Atelier des Matières, another Chanel initiative that disassembles end-of-life products and sorts them by material. What started as an in-house operation now services other brands, helping to build a wider network of sustainable practices.
Partners like Filatures du Parc (yarn makers), Authentic Material (material innovators), and universities like Cambridge and Politecnico di Milano are all onboard — proving that this is about long-term collaboration, not a quick greenwashing fix.
No Hard Targets, Just Long-Term Vision
Chanel isn’t setting flashy goals like “50% recycled by 2026” — and that’s on purpose. Pavlovsky was clear: Nevold isn’t about chasing KPIs. It’s about building the infrastructure, knowledge, and technical capabilities needed to evolve luxury sustainably — not just for next season, but for the next generation.
“What’s mandatory at Chanel is to create a dream,” he said. “Nevold gives us the tools to keep doing that — in a world where resources are no longer guaranteed.”
So, What Does This Really Mean?
It’s easy to be cynical about sustainability in fashion — especially when overproduction is still rampant. But Nevold feels different. It’s not a resale app. It’s not a capsule collection. It’s a foundational shift.Chanel is betting that sustainability and desirability can coexist — and they’re putting serious resources behind it. Only time will tell how this plays out, but one thing’s for sure: the future of luxury is being rethreaded, piece by piece.
