A Career Built on Serendipity and Setbacks
Ashish Gupta knows all about the unpredictable nature of fashion—and life. As he makes his long-awaited return to London Fashion Week, it’s both a celebration and a reflection. This isn’t just his comeback show after two years; it also marks twenty years since his first LFW appearance in 2005.
“I treat every season like it’s my last,” Ashish says from New Delhi during a Zoom call, weeks before his show at London’s 180 Strand. “Life is unpredictable. I feel lucky to do what I love, and I never take it for granted.”
Ashish’s career has been full of unexpected twists. Years ago, after losing his portfolio in Paris, he found himself back in London, crafting one-off pieces until Browns boutique spotted his work on a passerby and invited him in. That moment sparked a career built on what he calls “bad luck/good luck” coincidences.
His most recent challenge came with the sudden collapse of Matches, the online retailer that stocked his collections. It was a major financial blow for his independent business—but it also pushed him to launch his own direct-to-consumer e-commerce site, something he had been putting off for years.
“I’ve always been a bit old-school and a technophobe,” he admits. “But better late than never.”
From Wholesale to Direct Connection
For the first time, Ashish is connecting with customers directly, something he had always avoided in favor of wholesale for its convenience. Now, he finds the process exciting—seeing in real time what resonates with shoppers.
He credits Natalie Kingham, former fashion director at Matches, for encouraging him to make the leap into e-commerce.
Known for his unapologetically bold, sequined pieces, Ashish’s past collections have included everything from a sequined sweatshirt reading “I’m Serious” to his famous “Immigrant” T-shirt worn on the runway just after the Brexit referendum.
“You have to keep a sense of humor, no matter how difficult things get,” he says.
Days before his show, his East London studio buzzes with energy as casting takes place. He jokes with models, telling them to walk like they’re heading home from a wild night out. “We have this 9 a.m. slot, and I thought, ‘Who wants sequins for breakfast?’ But then I realized—it’s perfect. It’s like the walk of shame. Honestly, I’d love to see someone wearing sequins at nine in the morning.”
A Hands-On, No-Waste Approach to Fashion
Ashish has been producing his collections in India since 2002, after struggling to find UK manufacturers capable of making his intricate, handmade designs. What started as a four-person team has now grown into a 50-person studio in New Delhi, led by his mother—who left her career as a doctor to work with him.
His approach is highly personal and hands-on. Every piece is made to order, with no waste or leftover stock. “Everything is crafted for the exact pattern piece—there’s no cutting from large rolls of fabric and tossing the excess. It’s almost like couture,” he explains.
Each season begins with weeks spent in India, fully focused on the collection. “I go into a kind of trance. I don’t go out or socialize—I just work. And when it clicks, it’s the best feeling in the world. It’s delicious.”
The pandemic forced Ashish to pause his runway shows, but that break allowed him to explore other creative formats—like experimental lookbooks and artist collaborations. His recent partnership with Rottingdean Bazaar became a personal favorite.
“Not doing shows opened up new ways of working. I love collaborating with artists and photographers—it makes everything feel fresh.”
So, why return to the runway now?
“Absence makes the heart grow fonder,” he smiles. “I really wanted to do a show again—but only if it made sense creatively and financially. Somehow, everything aligned at the last minute, and it all came together.”
And like everything Ashish touches, this comeback feels both deeply personal and a little bit magical.
