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Rick Owens Swaps Black for Stone at PFW

Rick Owens Swaps Black for Stone at PFW

Rick Owens Stone: The designer ditches his signature darkness for pastel minerality at Paris Fashion Week, staging SS27 by the Palais de Tokyo fountains.

Rick Owens presented a stunning reversal at Paris Fashion Week when the architect of contemporary goth debuted his Rick Owens stone collection for spring/summer 2027. Staged against the fountains of the Palais de Tokyo, the show revealed a radical departure from the designer’s three-decade love affair with darkness. Stone tones, pale silhouettes, and an almost ethereal lightness replaced the architectural shadows and latex textures that have defined his work since the ’90s.

The collection read as a study in mineral palettes. Soft grays, warm beiges, and gentle creams dominated the lineup, with pieces constructed in airy fabrications that seemed to breathe rather than absorb light. Silhouettes remained distinctly Owens, elongated, sculptural, commanding, but stripped of their usual density. Draping took on an almost Roman quality, with fabric falling in loose, elegant folds that suggested movement and weightlessness rather than the heavy, grounded forms his loyal following knows intimately. The choice of venue amplified the shift: those cascading fountains weren’t backdrop; they were collaborators, their constant motion and spray catching the pale fabrics and creating an almost dreamlike atmosphere around the models.

For a designer whose brand identity has been so synonymous with darkness and resistance, this Rick Owens stone shift represented more than a seasonal color change. It signaled a willingness to question the very foundations of his aesthetic language without abandoning his core design philosophy. Goth, it turns out, doesn’t always have to be black, sometimes it can be reflected in water and reimagined in stone.

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