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Kate Hawley’s Gothic Masterpiece Inside the Frankenstein Costume Design

gothic

An intimate look at the atmospheric wardrobe shaping Guillermo del Toro’s dark new vision.

The Revival of a Gothic Classic

Guillermo del Toro’s Netflix retelling of Mary Shelley’s enduring tale brings a fresh surge of creative energy to the gothic canon. While fashion houses such as Olivier Theyskens and Prada have long mined Frankenstein’s imagery for inspiration, the film’s costumes stand out as a visionary reinterpretation of the story’s emotional core. Designed by Kate Hawley, the mind behind Harley Quinn’s now iconic pink and blue ensemble, the wardrobe for this adaptation is poised to dominate award discussions. Hawley approaches the Victorian era through a Germanic and romantic lens, weaving together elements of mythology, religion and nature to create a dreamlike world steeped in melancholy.

Victor Frankenstein’s costumes chart his descent from polished ambition to unraveling madness. Inspired by the performative charisma of Mick Jagger, Victor arrives in a sharply tailored dark velvet suit echoing his aristocratic roots and obsessive pursuit of perfection. As his creation consumes him, the clean lines dissolve into looser silhouettes, frayed edges and increasingly disordered details that mirror his psychological collapse. In contrast, Jacob Elordi’s Creature evolves in the opposite direction, shifting from fragmented to whole. Hawley’s visual storytelling aligns these opposing trajectories to crystalize the film’s emotional arc. Crimson emerges as a symbolic thread throughout, from Claire’s red veil to the stains that mark Victor and finally bleed into Elizabeth’s wedding dress, bringing the palette full circle.

Elizabeth As Nature’s Echo

Mia Goth’s portrayal of Elizabeth becomes a lyrical counterpoint to the film’s darker elements. Her costumes incorporate botanical and insect motifs that reflect her deep connection to the natural world, accentuated by Tiffany and Co jewellery designed specifically for the film. Among these is a cross that merges archival Tiffany elements with Meta Overbeck’s scarab necklace, seen on Elizabeth in a striking blue toned look. Her off the shoulder gown trimmed in black lace nods to portraits of Mary Shelley herself, as does her upswept nineteenth century hairstyle that frames her face in soft, poetic lines.

The collaboration between Hawley and Tiffany infuses Elizabeth’s character with both historical grounding and contemporary resonance. Gemstones and fabric work together to create a visual language that feels timeless yet alive, crafting a character whose beauty is inseparable from the film’s emotional themes.

A Wedding Dress Rooted in Myth and Memory

Elizabeth’s wedding dress emerges as the film’s most haunting creation. Designed in close collaboration with del Toro, the gown abandons traditional Victorian conventions in favor of the mythical. Layers of ivory fabric wrap around her body like delicate bandages, subtly echoing the Creature’s construction. Inspired by Swiss ribbon corsets, the bodice blends period accuracy with the legacy of the Bride of Frankenstein. Ribbon accents trail like softened remnants of laboratory bindings.

The gown’s inner structure is intentionally exposed, while the outer layer is crafted from sheer organza that creates an X ray effect. Only when touched by blood do the hidden seams and stitched foundations reveal themselves fully, transforming the dress into a symbolic anatomical specimen. This design choice anchors Elizabeth not only in Victor’s past but in the Creature’s fate, making her a bridge between the story’s emotional worlds.

In Hawley’s hands, costume becomes character. Through layers of fabric, craftsmanship and symbolic detail, the wardrobe embodies the film’s blend of gothic romance and modern cinematic poetry, capturing the heart of Frankenstein in every stitch.

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